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Let me say that again. Sarajevo: It’s complicated. I’ve longed to visit this city for ages, because of the cultural fascination I have for the war and their struggles in rehabilitative efforts [...]

It’s the end of 45 days in Albania, and it’s been mixed. Tirana, for some inexplicable reason, has weaseled itself into my heart. I’ll be back. Durres, the seaside town I spent the last 11 days [...]